Dress-cutting instrument for drafting garments.



No. 708,506. I Patented Sept. 2, I902.

' G. V. VALENTINE.

DRESS CUTTING INSTRUMENT FUR DRAFTING 'GARMENTS.

(Application filed. July 5, 1901. Renewec l Aug. 11, 1902.)

(N0 Model.)

5 Sheets-Sheet IL V THE NDRRI$ PZTERS co, Puoroumu. WASHINGTON, D c.

No. 708,506. Patented Sept. 2, 1902.

a. v. VALENTINE.

DRESS CUTTING INSTRUMENT FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

(Applicaticn filed July 5, 1901. Renewed Aug. 11, 1902.)

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 't ssesx 6 zzzm Patented Sept. 2, I902.

I No. 708,506.

6. V. VALENTINE. DRESS CUTTING INSTRUMENT FOB DRA'FTING GARMENTS.

[Application filed July 5, 1901. Renewed Aug. 11, 190B.)

5 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

ill/Mess es:

No. 708,506. Patented Sept. 2, I902. v

G. V. VALENTINE.

DB ESS CUTTING INSTRUMENT FOR DRAFTING GABMENTS,

(Lyplicaflun filed July 5, 1901. Renewed Aug. 11, 190B.)

5 Sheets-Shoat 4.

(No Model.)

Iii"

ms NDRR No. 708,506. Patented Sept. 2, I902.

G. V. VALENTENE. DRESS CUTTING INSTRUMENT FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

(N0 Model.)

THE wanna PETERS c0, PnDrO-LlTNO" wnsnmomu, n, cy

GUSTAF V. VALENTINE, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

DRESS-CUTTING INSTRUMENT FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 708,506, datedSeptember 2, 1902.

Application filed July 5,1901. Renewed August 11, 1902. Serial No.119,222. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GUsTAF V. VALENTINE, a citizen of theUnited States,residingat Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Charts for DraftingLadies- Dress Patterns; and I do hereby declare the following to be afull, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enableothers skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use thesame.

My invention relates 'to an improved instrument or tool adapted to beused in drafting ladies waist, skirt, and sleeve patterns, the objectbeing to produce an instrument of this character by the help of whichpatterns for waists, skirts, and sleeves may be drawn without anymathematical calculation on the part of the draftsman and which can bereadily understood and applied; and it consists in the features ofconstruction and combinations of parts hereinafter fully described andclaimed.

In the accompanying drawings, illustrating my invention, Figure 1 is aplan View of one side of the instrument, showing the scales, the, whichare used in drawing the front of the waist-garment pattern. Fig. 2 isasimilar view of the reverse side, showing the scales which are used indrafting the patterns for the back of the waist-garments and thesleevepatterns. Fig. 3 is a similar view of the same side as Fig. 2,showing the scales which'are used in drafting the skirt-patterns. Fig.4: is a similar view of the same side as Fig. 1, showing the scaleswhich are used in drafting the hip-curves 0n the gores of the skirt.Fig. 5

shows the various positions in which the instrument is placed toestablish the points in drafting the pattern for the back of thewaistgarment. Fig. i shows the various positions in which the instrumentis placed in drawing the curves of the back of the waistpattern. Fig. 6shows the various positions in which the instrument is placed in drawingthe curves of the front of the waist. Fig. 7

Fig. 9 shows the positions in which the instrument is placed in drawingthe curves of a sleeve-pattern. Fig. 10 shows the positions in which theinstrument is placed in drafting a skirtpattern. Fig. 11 shows theoutlines of a skirtpattern as drawn bythe use of the instru ment.

In drafting a dress-pattern by the help of this instrument therearethree separate and distinct steps to be taken. First, the measurementsare taken as ordinarily done with a tape line; second, the variousimportant points on the pattern are established, and, third, the curvesor outlines of the pattern are drawn.

To establish the various points on the pattern I have arranged variousscaleson the instrument in such positions and numbered according tovarious measurements, so that when the instrument is placed in certainpositions on the pattern definite points can be marked on the patternwhich establish the junctures of two curves or lines or some otherimportant points. To facilitate the marking of the various points theprincipal points of the scales which are not on the edge or referred tothe edge are provided with perforations adapted to admit the point of apencil. After the various important points have been established thecurved outlines of the pattern are indicated by placing the instrumentin certain definite positions, as indicated by the scales and othercharacters on the instrument.

As indicated in Figs. 1 to 4, the instrument is somewhat fish-shaped inoutline, having one large nearly semicircular end and being taperedtoward the other end. One of the long edges is curved convexly for abouthalf its length from the large end and is straight throughout the restof itslength. The other long edge is straight throughout its wholelength. The curve of the large end and the curved portion of the onelong edge has been determined by experience and is such that a certaindefinite portion of it will be adapted to indicate each curved line inthe waist sleeve and skirt patterns. As shown in Figs. 1 to 4, theinstrument is provided witha line on each side drawn at right angles tothe long straight edge and meeting same at its juncture with the largecurved end. This line is divided into inches 0 to 4. on one side theneck portion of waist-patterns.

is provided with a number of points nearly equally spaced around thelarge end and along the curved edge and lettered from A to R. These areused in placing the instrument to draw the various curved lines of thepatterns. Both sides of the instrumentare provided with various scalesfigured between certain limits and placed on the instrument in suchplaces that when the instrument is placed in certain predeterminedpositions on the drawing the divisions of the scales will determine thelocation of certain points on the pattern according to the measurementstaken. Scales A, J, and K represent neck-measures varying from eight tofourteen inches and are used to determined points on Scales O and Nrepresent bust-measures varying from twenty-four to forty-five and areused to determine points on the front of waist-pattern. Scales E and Frepresent waist-measures Varying from twenty to forty and are used todetermine points on the back of waist-pattern at waist-line. Scales B,O, and D represent width of back from arm to arm, about three inchesbelow the point of shoulder, varying from nine to fourteen inches, andare used in determining points on the back of waistpattern. Scale Mrepresents the width of front from arm to arm, about two and onehalfinches below point of shoulder, varying from ten to sixteen inches,andis used in determining a point on the front of waist-pattern. Scale L issimilar to scale M, but taken at shoulder, varyingfrom ten to sixteeninches, and is used to determine a point in front of waist-pattern.Point S at the juncture of the long straight edge-with curved end isused in placing the instrument in determining the points in the curve ofthe shoulder end of the sleeve-patterns. The point a and the scales 1),c, d, and e, which are on the curved line running from the point Snearly half the length of the long straight edge, are all used indetermining points in the shoulder end or arm-size of thesleeve-pattern. The scales 1), c, d, and e vary from eleven to sixteeninches and represent arm-size measurements adjacent the shoulder. Scalesg and h represent the elbow-measure, varying from eight to thirteeninches, and are used in determining points in the sleeve-patterns atelbow. Scales 'i and j represent hand-measures with the thumb compressedand are used to determine the hand or wrist size of the sleeve-patternand vary from five to nine inches. Scales numbers 1 and 2 representwaist-sizes varying from eighteen to thirty-' seven and are used indetermining points and positions on the skirt-pattern. Scales 3, 4, 5,and 6 represent the difference between the waist and hip measures,varying from 10 to 22, and wit-l1 the points 3, 4., 5, and 6 on the edgeof the instrument which are connected to said scales 3, 4, 5, and 6 bystraight lines are used in placing the instrument so as to draw thehipcurves on the various gores of the skirt-pattern. Thehip-measureistakensixinchesbelow the waist-line. The lines marked 1st,2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th are used to determine the back-lines of thevarious gores of the skirt. The shaded portions on the edge of thestraight portion of the long curved edge of the instrument, togetherwith the two scales also on this edge, are used in determining thepositions of the darts in the waistpattern. Said scales vary from 6 to12 and represent the difference between the waist and bust measures.

In using this instrument in drafting the various patterns of a dress, abase-line is first drawn on which certain measurements are laid off andin relation to which certain points are determined, for instance, indrafting the back of a plain waist-pattern first draw the base-line 1-2,Fig. 5. Then place the instrument in the first position as indicated atP, with the long straight edge at right angles to the base-line near theend to the right of the base-line with the straight edge to the right,draw a line along the straight edge of instrument about three incheslong; mark at scale A the neck-size; mark at scale B the width ofbacksize, mark at K about one-fourth inch fromfl on base-line, and alsomark at W according to W on the instrument four and one-half inches fromS. Place the instrument in position No. 2, as indicated by P similar toP, but with the edge at mark W. Mark the width of back-size as indicatedon scales 0 and D. To locate the third position, measure along thebaseline from 1 to 2 the length of back, and mark point 3 one-half inchto the left of point 2. Place the instrument at point 2, as indicated indotted lines, so that the straight edge is at right angles to thebase-line. Place the point of finger on the straight edge of theinstrument six inches from the base-line and swing the instrument aroundon said point as a pivot until the edge of the instrument is at point 3,as shown in full lines P Draw a line from point of finger to base-line,mark point 9 three-fourths of an inch from baseline at edge ofinstrument, and mark the waist-measure as indicated in scales E and F.Having thus established the various points, it only remains to draw thecurved lines, as indicated in Fig. 4:. shape of the instrument placedalongside of the curves and numbered 1 to 13 indicate the instrument.The letters along the curved edge of the instrument are placed even withthe corresponding letters on the- The small figures in the diagram. Forinstance, for curve 1, or as it may be called the neck curve, placeletter i K on the instrument even with the point marked K on the diagramand draw the curve. Next place the instrument so that N on theinstrument is even with N on the diagram, the edge of the instrumentalso passing through point L, and draw the curve, and so on for eachposition marked on the dia gram. The dotted line through the diagram isa straight line passing through points 7 and 10, and line 6 is one inchlong, drawn at right angles to line 5 at about its middle point, asindicated, and is used to determine the meeting-point of curves 7 and 8.The lines below the waist-line have no fixed points,

but may easily be made by placing the instrument as indicated by 10, 1112, and 13.

In Figs. 6 and 7 I have illustrated how to draw the outlines for thefront of a plain waist-pattern. To determine the points in the patterndraw a base line as before, place curved rule in position No. 1, whichis near the end of base-line to the left, see.

that it is at right angle with base-line, then draw a line along thestraight edge from baseline five inches long; mark the neck-measure inscale J, mark size of neck in scale K, mark width of chest in scale L.This last point establishes the length of shoulder of the front. Lay 06a point on the base-line six inches to the right of position 1 whichestablishes position -2. Place curved rule in position No. 2, and seethat it is at right angle with base-lineand even with point made, thenmark'in width of chest scale M, then mark in bust-measure, scale N, thenmark in bust measure, scale 0, it is now advisable to draw curvesbetween points made and for direction for the same qonsult diagram Fig.6. The curves are 1, 2, 3, and 4. Turn the curved rule as indicated bythe fig ure alongside of the curves and place the letters on curved ruleeven with letters on diagram-as, for instance, letter F on curved.

rule even with letter F as shown on dia- .gram, then draw curve 1 fromletter F the same as the back from point 8 to point 11..

(See diagram Fig. 4.) Point 22 is straight below point 20. Point 26, theheight of the top end of darts, is established by deducting the measurefrom a distance derived as follows: WVhen measuring from the socket-bonein back of neck to the waist-line in front, notice the measure to apoint on the tape from the socket-bone to a point about one inch abovethe largestportionof bust.

scales 9 and h the elbow-size.

Having determined this measure, deduct, as said, the distance betweenpoints 1 and 5, Fig. 4, from same and use the remainder as a radius andpoint 16, Fig. 6, as a center and mark 26. Point 27 is established bysubtracting the distance from point 1 to point 5,Fig. from the length ofwaist from socket-bone in back of neck and measuring with this. distancedown from point 16. Draw a line at 26 or height of dart. This lineshould be on such a slant that it will pass through the top of thesecond dart, which should be one-half inch higher than the top offirst-dart. Place the instrument in position 3 P small end at point 27or at the length of front onbasedine andthe curved edge oftheinstrumenton point 22. Then draw the waist-line from 22 to 27. Markpoints on waist-line as indicated on the edge of the instrument. Thefirst point is one-fourth of"an inch from base-line. The next point isthe front of first dart and is always the same. The next point is thefarther side of first dart and is determinedby marking on the firstscale the difference between the waist andbust measure. The next pointis the front line of second dart and is always the same. The next pointis the back line of second dart and is determined by marking in secondscale the difference between the bust and waist measures. Next mark thecenter of the darts on waist-line and draw lines through same parallelwith base-line. Now draw curves 5, 6, 7, and 8;

then lines 9, 10, ll, 12, and 13; also curves 14 and 15, as indicated inFig. 6. The diagram should be checked up on the waist-line to see thatit corresponds with the measure taken. It will usually be a little full.This may be deducted at point 21 and the curves 21 to 19 then drawn, asindicated, Fig. 6.

To draft a sleeve-pattern, draw abase-line. Place curved rule inposition No. 1, as shown P, Fig. 8. This position establishes all pointsat arm-size. Place S and No.10, scale 5, even with base-line, as shownin the figure. Mark at S point 1 on the base-line. Mark at a on thesleeve-curve. Mark armsize in scales 1), c, d, and e, which last is forthe under-arm pattern. Draw curves between these points, as indicated inthe diagram, Fig. 9. To establish position 2, measure from 1 to 2 onbase-line, Fig. 8, the length of arm from shoulder to elbow, and toestab lish position 3 measure on base-line from 2 to 3 the length of armfrom elbowto hand. 1

Place the instrument in position 2, as shown in Fig. 8, S on theinstrument at point 2 on the base-line. Also move the rule so that 18 inscale 5 at the opposite edge of rule will also be on the base-line. Thenmark in Pointfis always two inches from point 2. Place theinstrument inposition 3, as indicated at P, Fig. 8, with the small end up, A on theinstrument on the base-line and the base-line side of theinstrument.

. the left, as indicated at P, Fig. 10. Place the fingerat the Opoint inthe 2 to O, O to 2 scale at the large end of the instrument and allowthe instrument to turn on this point as a pivot. Use the distance to thewaist-measure in scale 1 as a radius and draw a circle. This will be thetop line of the gore. The back line of the gore will be established bythe direction of the line marked first when the instrument is inposition P, Fig. 10. This will establish the dotted line, as shown onthe first gore and also point 3 at the top end of the gore. To draw thehip curve, the instrument is placed in position, as indicated at P, Fig.10, with the small end up. Place point 3, which is on the curved edge ofthe instrument, at 3, the top back corner of gore. Then move theinstrument so that the difference between the waist and hip measure inscale No. 3 is also on the backlinealreadyestablished. Then drawthecurve from 3 along the instrument toward the bottom and finish it with astraight line. The curves of the second and third gores are drawn in thesame manner, scale No. 5 being used for the front of the second gore andscale No. 4 for the back of same. Scale N0. 6 is used for the front ofthe third gore, and scale No. 3 is used for the back of the third gore.The fourth gore has no curves, but is made up of straight lines. Insteadof placing the finger at 0 in the scale for drawing the waist-line ofthe fourth gore place it at A or about one and three-fourths inches tothe left of same, and instead of using the waist size in waist scale No.1 for a radius use such a number in waist-scale No. l which is in linewith the waist size in waist-scale No. 2. For instance, referring toFig. 3, waist size 24 on waist-scale No. 2 is opposite No. 21 onwaist-scale No. l, which is the point which should be used in drawingthe top end of the fourth gore. The back line of gore is determined, asbefore, by the line marked 4th. The circle of the bottom of the skirtmay be made with the use of a tape-line in the usual manner. On one sideof the instrument a cord is drawn at right angles to said long straightedge, beginning at the junction of said long straight edge and saidlarge curved end or at the point S. Said cord is divided into inches andquarters and is numbered from 2 to O and O to2, beginning with the pointS with 2, 0 being prac-' tically in the center of the instrument. Whenthe skirt is the same length front and back, the top and bottom arecircled from 0 of the 2 to O, O to 2 scale, as indicated on the thirdgore, Fig. 10; but should the back be longer than the front, circle thetop from point O and the bottom by holding the tape just as far to theright of O as the back is longer than the front. Should the front belonger than the back, circle the bottom from 0 and the top by placingpoint of finger to hold the tape just as far to the right of 0 as thefront is longer than the back.

I claim as my invention 1. A chart or instrument for drafting garments,cut out of thin material, having one long straight edge one end of whichis tangential to a large convex curved end which is practicallysemicircular and which merges into a convex curve of larger radius, saidconvex curve approaching said straight edge and extending about one-halfits length and terminating in a tangential straight line which continuesto approach said first-mentioned edge, so that the instrumentpractically ends in a point, together with the scales on opposite sidesof the chart arranged in respect to the edges of the chart in the mannershown and described.

2. A chart or instrument for drafting garments, of a somewhatfish-shaped outline as described, provided with a large curved end,practically semicircular, which merges into a convex curve of largerradius on one edge and into a straight line on the opposite edge, saidconvex curve of larger radius ending in a tangential straight line whichapproaches the opposite edge of the instrument, said curved edge and endbeing adapted, when the instrument is placed in predetermined positionsto indicate the curves of the various patterns comprising a ladys dress,together with the scales on opposite sides of the instrument, arrangedon said instrument in the manner and for the purposes set forth.

3. A chart or instrument for drafting patterns for ladies garmentscomprising a thin fiat instrument of a somewhat fish-shaped outline,having one long straight edge terminating tangentially to a large convexcurved end, which is practically semicircular and which merges into aconvex curve of larger radius terminating in a tangential straight linewhich approaches said first-mentioned line, and provided with certainscales on its edges representing certain measurements and also withother scales on the body of the instrument removed from the edges,representing various other measurements ordinarily taken, said scalesvarying between the usual limits of the corresponding measurements andbeing placed on the instrument in such relation to the outlines of samethat when said instrument is placed in certain predetermined positionsthe various points in the scales will indicate various points on thediagram agreeing with the corresponding measures.

4. In a chart or instrument for drafting patterns for ladies garments,comprising a thin voasoc flat fish-shaped instrument having one longstraight edge terminating tangential to a large convex curved endpractically semicircular, which merges into a convex curve of largerradius, which approaches said straight edge extending about half thelength of same and which ends in a tangential straight line whichcontinues to approach said straight edge, the end of the instrumentopposite to said large curved end being quite narrow, scales on saidinstrument corresponding with the usual measurements, said scales beinggraduated between the ordinary limits of the corresponding measurementsand provided with perforations at the principal points in same adaptedto admit the point of a pencil for the purpose of marking on thepattern.

5. A chart or instrument for drafting patterns for ladies garments, of asomewhat fishshaped outline as described,provided with one long straightedge ending in a large curved end of constantly-increasing radius thoughnearly semicircular, said large curved end merging into a convex curveof large radius which extends nearly parallel with said long straightedge and about one-half its length, said large curve ending in atangential straight line which approaches said long straight edge, saidinstrument being provided with a number of diagonal lines which are soplaced on the instrument that when the long straight edge of saidinstrument is placed on one vertical edge of a skirt-gore pattern one ofsaid diagonal lines will determine the direction of the other verticaledge of said gore, substantially as described.

6. A chart or instrument for drafting patterns for ladies garments. of asomewhat fishshaped outline as described, provided with one longstraight edge ending in a large curved end of constantly-increasingradius though nearly semicircular, said large curved end merging into aconvex curve of large ra dius which extends nearly parallel with saidlong straight edge and about 0ne-half its length, said large curveendingin atangential straight line which approaches said long straightedge, said instrument being provided with ascale divided into inches andquarters extending ata right angle to said long straight edge, andbeginning at the junction of said long straight edge with said largecurved end, the second inch division from the startingpoint of saidscale being marked d and numbers running right andleftfrom said 0 point,forming what might be called a rightand-let t scale, substantially asdescribed.

GUSTAF V. VALENTINE.

In presence of- WM. ELMORE Fos'rER, M. A. WILLIAMS.

